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@berntxspeed
Created December 11, 2024 02:12
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Keyboard Notes
Keeb Notes:
------using the keyboard I sent:
-usb goes in left half
-trrs cable must connect the two halves
-dont connect or disconnect the trrs cable while the keyboard is plugged in (it has three pins: 5v, gnd, and data - and while unplugging it can cause a short circuit)
-to see how the keyboard is setup open up a browser tab on a non-work computer and go to usevia.app
-hit '+ authorize device' and pick the item that comes up. should either say sweep or a.dux depending on the keyboard i gave you)
-you'll see a layout of the keyboard and you can see what each key does
-you can also change the layout of the keyboard here
-note your keyboard is running QMK firmware with VIA enabled. Via is what allows you to configure it in the sweet visual browser interface. straight QMK is all programmatic and quite a bit more to get your head around - not crazy but def a hell of a lot less 'casual' to say the least. But you can do some really sick stuff with straight QMK that you can't do with VIA like auto-shift and combos.
-to start off I'd recommend just trying to get used to typing words on it - then branch out from there
-monkeytype.com is a great way to practice typing - it just feeds you words and you type them as fast as you can
-if you're not really a touch typist yet and need to start learning to feel where the keys are - you can use keybr.com - it starts you off with just a few keys and adds more as you get better
-and then I'd recommend perusing some notable youtubers to get familiar with the keyboard landscape
-ben vallack
-dygma labs
-here's a video of kyek building a ferris sweep (one of the pcb's i sent) - great way to quickly see all the steps that go into building a keyboard and that while it seems insanely daunting - its not too bad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBPu7AyDtkM
------the other stuff i sent:
-I included a bunch of PCB's (printed circuit boards for other keyboards should you want to build one)
-A. Dux
-splayed key columns - more comfortable for your fingers
-Helix
-lots of keys if you prefer more keys
-you can snap on row off if you don't want that many keys
-build guide link: https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md
-of the many items it lists - you really only need the controller, trrs jack, diodes, switches, and keycaps
(much of the other stuff is for led backlighting, case)
-Ferris Sweep V2.2
-small and portable
-main github page (many version of the sweep): https://github.com/davidphilipbarr/Sweep
-the version of the sweep i sent you is the sweep v2.2 https://github.com/davidphilipbarr/Sweep/tree/main/Sweep%20v2.2
-if you wanna build any of these and want some guidance from me, let me know
-trrs jacks - these are a bit of a PITA to find - especially when you only need two then have to pay like 10 bucks to ship a 1 dollar part
-https://keeb.io/products/trrs-jack-3-5mm
-some solid vendors to look to for supplies:
-keeb.io
-littlekeyboards.com
-loprokb.ca (they have the most bestest choc switches sunsets, ambients and twilight if you like typing on a cloud)
-holykeebs.com (based out of israel - i bought my first corne keyboard from him last year - he's so nice and helpful)
-he's got a great selection of pre-built and programmed keyboards
-he also has lots of options with integrated trackballs, trackpads, or trackpoints (think IBM thinkpad laptop with the red nub in the middle of the keyboard)
*they all sell individual parts and kits for building keyboards
*they also have certain PCBs as well as 3d printed cases that hold and protect the PCB if you like that sort of thing - I never had the wherewithall to go that far - as just putting the feet on the PCB and using it as is was good enough for me
-------some general notes about building keyboards:
-the PCB (printed circuit board) is the heart of the keyboard - it's what all the switches and controller connect to
-it's what determines the layout of the keyboard - how many keys, where they are, etc
-there's lots of open sourced designs out there on github where you can download the gerber.zip file and send it to a PCB manufacturer to get it made
-jlcpcb.com is a good place to get PCBs made - they're cheap and good quality
-i've used them for all my stuff (they ship shockingly fast from mainland china)
-wired (usb, trrs jack) or wireless (i.e. bluetooth)
-informs the choice of controller
-wired: rp2040, keeboar, elite_pi, elite_c
-wireless: nice!nano
-pcb may support just wired, just wireless (rae dux, owl), or both (ferris sweep, a. dux, helix)
-controller choice
-rp2040: cheap, easy to program, but no bluetooth
-nice!nano: bluetooth, but more expensive and a bit more difficult to program
-also need lipo battery for each side
-trrs jack (if running wired)
-reset button (makes resetting the controller or getting it into bootloader mode for firmware flashing easier)
-you can always reset it directly on the controller by using a ball point pen to short the RST pin to the GND (ground) pin next to it
-headers to connect the controller to the board
-theres's the simple headers that come with the controller (need to be soldered in, cannot be removed)
-there's spring headers that allow you to simply snap the controller onto the board
-a bit pricier, but really nice in that you can easily change controllers later on
-depending on the hole sizes on the controller or board may still need to solder one side so it stays in place (i've had to solder the board side than snap the controller on)
-ex: https://www.littlekeyboards.com/collections/miscellaneous/products/spring-header-12-pin
-socketed headers
-like spring headers but you solder something to both the controller and the board then snap together
-ex: https://www.littlekeyboards.com/collections/miscellaneous/products/ultra-low-profile-sockets
-switches (this is where it gets fun)
-there's three main types of switches - linear, clicky, and tactile
-linear: smooth keypress with no bump or click
-clicky: has a click sound and a bump on keypress
-tactile: has a bump on keypress but no click sound
-my favorite
-there's silent variants of many that are way quieter on keypress
-if you got a keyboard with blue keycaps - your switches are silent MX switches
-then there's differing spring tension - how much force does it take to press the switch and how hard does it return to top
-I've included a sampling of a couple variants of each type of switch for you to try out and see what you prefer
-there's two main form factors of switches - mx and choc
-mx are bigger switches - think gaming keyboard (i included some sample MX switches if I gave you a choc-based keyboard)
-choc are lower profile switches
-differences between the two:
-mx switches are more common and have more variety (SO MANY options for linear, clicky, and tactile styles)
-choc switches are more niche - but many people prefer them (me for one) - but that said - they have less variety - tactile is what most of us are used to but there are few tactile options for choc switches - loprokb.ca sunsets being heads and shoulders over kailh choc browns
-mx switches have longer travel on keypress whereas choc switches have shorted travel distance (less fatigue)
-choc switches are smaller and lower profile
-keyboards generally only support one or the other - so you have to choose which you want before you buy a keyboard
-some keyboards support both - see 'sweep high' here: https://github.com/davidphilipbarr/Sweep
-its an issue of spacing between the switches to clear the keycaps and just feel 'right'
-and its an issue of the position of the two pins on the bottom of the switch - mx switches have two pins that are spaced further apart than choc switches - so if a keyboard supports both it likely has holes that are setup for both types of pins
-directly soldered to the board vs hotswap sockets
-directly soldered is cheaper and more secure - but you can't change switches without desoldering (which is not really easy or clean)
-hotswap sockets allow you to change out the switches on the board
-but since hotswap sockets hold the switch less tightly - its common to use a switch plate pcb to hold the switches in place
-ex: https://www.littlekeyboards.com/collections/corne-cases/products/corne-analyst-case
-keycaps!
-these snap into the top of the switch and they're what your finger actually touches
-there's lots of different shapes to these and you really feel the difference when using different styles
-I have some keyboards with custom concave keycaps and they feel amazing to use - very positive feel
-you can pull them off and replace with different ones that you like better
-they can be blank or have markings on them
-I can imagine if you're not a 'touch typist' you'd want markings on them
-they can be procured here: https://www.littlekeyboards.com/collections/keycaps/products/mbk-40s-keycaps
------they actual firmware!
-there's QMK for wired keyboards
-and there's ZMK for wireless bluetooth keyboards
-these days I prefer ZMK because it has some functionality I can't get in QMK
-beyond assigning one key that's output when you press a given key on the keyboard - you can build in so much more functionality into the keyboard. that's how its possible to get away with only 34 keys but still have all the functionality of a full keyboard.
-layers (shift is like a layer - when you hold it you engage a new keymap where numbers are now symbols and letters are their caps versions) but then strip the specifics and you can do whatever you want with layers and whats on them and how you activate them
-combos (press two keys at the same time and get a third keypress - like pressing 'a' and 's' at the same time and getting 'z' - or pressing 'shift' and 'a' and getting 'A')
-hold / tap (press and hold a key and get one keypress, tap it and get another)
-tap dance (tap a key once and get one keypress, tap it twice and get another, tap it three times and get a third)
-macros (record a series of keypresses and play them back with one keypress)
-and so much more - you can get really deep into the weeds with this stuff - but its all there for you to use if you want to
-------- what am I rocking these days:
-the Rae Dux
-keys are fanned out (splay) to more natually be where your fingers are
-choc switches
-wireless only
-thumbs more inboard (more comfy)
-inspired by the A. Dux
-the Owl
-basically the mx version of the Rae Dux
-the Keiler
-almost the same as the Rae Dux but the middle/ring/pinky columns are a little more offset and fanned out (splayed) to fit my hands more
-only supports hotswap sockets - I am more of a direct solder guy
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